Vesuvio is easy to miss. It’s in a neighborhood with a lot of competing establishments, and the facade is so artsy that you might not even know it’s a place to get food and beer.

The front entrance. Bar front or artwork?

But those who wander in are rewarded with a rich ambiance and are privy to a true piece of San Francisco history. The bar started in 1948, and was a prominent part of the beat generation. The walls are covered with photos of beatnik heroes, and when you’re there you really feel that you’re part of a San Francisco legacy.

Pros

-Vesuvio has a wonderful and unique atmosphere.

-The prices of alcohol are pretty reasonable. 6+ dollars for a beer.

-There is seating upstairs.

-There are lots of private little corners upstairs. Great spot for a date!

-It’s part of a vibrant and exciting neighborhood.

-The staff is attentive and kind.

-It’s quiet, so it makes for a great place to have a quiet conversation.

Cons

-The bar isn’t that big.

-It’s a 15-20 minute walk from the BART (uphill).

-Parking is difficult. You’ll want to use a rideshare or public transportation.

-It doesn’t have live music.

-It’s not the kind of place you can dance (some might see this as a pro).

-Not ideal for large groups.

Get here by

-Rail-

You can take the BART or MUNI to Montgomery station, then walk north up Kearny or Montgomery, until you hit Columbus. Turn left on Columbus. You’ll walk a few blocks, and Vesuvio will be on the left side of the street. Vesuvio is right beside City Lights, arguably the heart of North Beach.

-Rideshare-

An Uber or a Lyft will work fine getting you here. No need to get dropped off right in front, because it’s nice to wander around the neighborhood a bit.

-Driving-

Driving is not recommended, because street parking is rare, and it can be a hassle. There are a number of parking garages in the area though.

SFMTA North Beach Garage is one of the bigger ones. It’s on 735 Vallejo St.

900 Sansome Garage is another garage, and is about 5 blocks away.

There are several ‘mini’ parking lots on Broadway, which only hold about 10-20 cars.

Expect to pay at least 5 dollars per hour.

What’s it like?

The first thing you notice when you walk inside Vesuvio is the cheesy, low hanging chandeliers, which actually go very well with the bar’s unique feel. The next thing you notice is just how much art is on the walls. There are photos of prominent beatniks, old paintings, funny little sayings, and so much more. I come here a lot, and I feel like every time I visit I notice ten new things on the walls.

The bar feels old- the wood is aged, the floor creaks, the photos are faded, but you really get the sense that you’re in a special place. The lighting is dim enough to feel cozy, but not so dark that you can’t see who you’re talking to.

I went to Vesuvio recently. I showed up at 6:30pm, after work, on a Tuesday. The place was sparsely packed, maybe only 60% full. The downstairs was fairly crowded, but, to my delight, the upstairs was almost empty. (I’ve been going here for years, and have never sat downstairs. It’s so much fun to sit by the windows upstairs and people watch.)

But it’s best to order your drink at the bar downstairs before making your way to the second floor.

Sometimes the bartender will come upstairs to take orders, but this is a bit of a gamble, and it takes a loooong time. I ordered my second beer when the bartender came upstairs. It was a 20 minute wait, and she brought up a different beer than what I had ordered. Not a big deal, because I actually enjoyed the beer she gave me. She was also nice and apologetic about the wait. But she could have easily fudged my order and brought up a drink that would’ve been unacceptable.

Lots of little two seater tables. Sit upstairs for an intimate date.

This is a great bar for conversation. It’s quiet and intimate, and you don’t have to shout over the din of a crowd, or a DJ’s giant speakers. So don’t come here looking to party it up, or to listen to techno music. Personally, I think this bar is perfect for two things:

This is a place to come after work on a weekday, when there are no crowds. The relaxed atmosphere is the perfect place to unwind with a few friends or coworkers. Don’t come with a large group- cap it at four or five people. There are a lot of little two-seater tables, but only a handful of tables meant to accommodate a big group.
Come here for an intimate night out for two. It could be a first date, or maybe a close friend you haven’t seen for a long time. My sister took me here for my 21st birthday, where I enjoyed my first legal beer. It was a really fun night, and the unique feel of the bar really added to the experience.

The neighborhood

Another reason to love Vesuvio is the great neighborhood that it’s in.

-City Lights-

Right next to Vesuvio is City Lights, the infamous book store. When America was banning books and arresting people for reading these illegal books, City Lights was a refuge for literature and continued to sell the forbidden material. Their upstairs is entirely devoted to poetry, and is a lovely spot to sit and read.

-Sights-

Vesuvio is only about four blocks away from Washington Square- which is a lovely park that has a beautiful cathedral in it. It’s on Columbus and Union.

If you continue walking north on Columbus, and then turn right on Lombard, and walk about 4 or 5 blocks, you’ll come to Coit Tower. One of the most iconic structures in San Francisco.

When you step outside of Vesuvio, you’re treated to another iconic structure, the Transamerica building.

North Beach has lovely views, and the Transamerica tower is one of the most prominent spectacles.

-Food and Dessert-

North Beach has a lot of great pizza places. It’s usually around 4-6 dollars for a big slice, and it’s the perfect thing to fill your belly after a night out at Vesuvio.

If you’re looking for something a little fancier than pizza by the slice, North Beach also has a lot of great Italian restaurants. Calzones is one of the most popular places to get dinner. There’s outdoor seating, delicious food, and the location is great- it’s right by Columbus and Green. Two blocks away from Vesuvio.

If you’re looking for a lunch, you can check out Molinari Delicatessen- an old-school Italian deli, with the highest quality meat, cheese, and bread. Remember, you grab a number first, then grab your bread from the back of the deli, and then wait for your number to be called.

If you walk up a few blocks on Columbus, on the right hand side of the street, just past Calzones, is Z Cioccolato. Z Cioccolato is a wonderful candy shop, with free fudge samples, ice cream, salt water taffy, and lots of gag gifts. The fudge is WONDERFUL.

-Other bars-

If Vesuvio is too quiet, and you’re looking for DJs and a small dance floor (if space permits), then you can head over to Grant and Green, which is on the corner of Grant and Green.

Right across the street from Vesuvio is another bar called Specs' Twelve Adler Museum Cafe, which feels much more like a dive bar, and can get a little bit livelier than Vesuvio. This bar doesn’t feel as intimate, and is a better place to get to know the locals.

Vesuvio is an excellent place to start your night. A great place for quiet conversation, or to reflect on the rich history of San Francisco. Meet up here for drinks before you go out to a fancy dinner. Or meet here to strategize your plans for the evening in North Beach.

Vesuvio : North Beach's little gem